Paul César Helleu
Signed in red pencil lower right: 'Helleu'; titled in pencil lower center: 'Mme Chéruit'. Collector's stamp (Lugt 421) lower left recto: A. Beurdeley, French (1847-1919). A fine impression in fine condition, with one inch margins on bottom and two inch margins on all other sides. Another impression inscribed '10'. Probably an edition of 10.
Madame Cheruit at the House of Raudnitz Soeurs, was one of the first women to control a major Paris fashion house. She is known for having been the first to recognize the talent of Paul Poiret (1878-1911) when he presented her 12 designs for gowns in 1898---she bought them all.
(1879-1944) Paul Poiret was one of the great designers of the 20th century. As a young man in Paris, he was apprenticed to an umbrella maker. By 1898 he was selling fashion designs, first to Cheruit, and then to Jacques Doucet. Before long, Poiret was working for Doucet as an assistant. He then briefly worked at the House of Worth Poiret opened his own house in 1904.